Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum

Since 2017, Bell & Ross’ Lum collection has stood out as some of their most desirable (and recognisable) pieces. While not all of the watches in the Lum collection have full lume dials, it’s become a bit of a signature for Bell & Ross… But their latest piece, the BR-X5 Green Lum, has switched things up as it’s one of the only watches with a full lume case.
The material used to create this effect is a photoluminescent composite made from quartz fibres called LM3D, which is made exclusively for Bell & Ross. Matte in appearance, it’s a robust material that’s similar to some of the fibreglass composites used by high-end brands like Franck Muller and Richard Mille.

The BR-X5 Green Lum has a multi-part case structure that alternates between this LM3D material and grade 2 micro-blasted titanium. This goes as well for the crown and crown guard, which are also microblasted titanium. This is then finished in a DLC coating creating a matte finish on the metals, complimenting the matte black dial and ultimately working to show off the LM3D case. Legibility at night will not be an issue with this watch – just don’t be surprised when you look down and see your entire wrist glowing… The squared-off case looks like it has been lifted straight out of the instrument cluster of an F-18, and is 41mm in diameter and slightly on the larger side, being 12.8mm thick. The dial is matte black and is on the busy side: a sub-dial at 9 o’clock tracks the power reserve up to 70 hours, and looks reminiscent of a fuel gauge, while the date window at 3 o’clock also looks akin to an altimeter. Applied indices have been used for the hour and minute markers with Super-LumiNova used for the hour and minute hands. While there is no doubt in my mind that the full lume case is the talking point of this watch, strip back all that light show and remove the titanium case and inside you will find a movement designed and manufactured by modern-day movement royalty Kenissi. The BR-CAL.323 is a chronometer-certified movement with a 70-hour power reserve that’s similar to the movement used in the now-discontinued Tudor North Flag. This movement is a huge step up in quality and horological competency for Bell & Ross, making the BR-X5 Green Lum arguably their most technical full lume watch yet. This might be a pilot’s watch nominally, but I reckon the BR-X5 Green Lum would really come into its own as a swimming companion. A screw-down crown and 100 metres of water resistance mean that, if you’re so inclined, you could witness the LM3D photoluminescent case work its magic underwater – and magic would definitely be the word.
Bell & Ross introduced the LUM series in 2017 with the BR 03-92 HOROLUM and some of the brightest Super-LumiNova on the hands, numerals and indices. The collection of enhanced luminescent watches grew through 2022 and now we have the 2023 BR-X5 Green Lum with a fully luminescent case. Based on the brand’s sportiest watch, the BR-X5 with a Kenissi-sourced manufacture movement, stainless steel is replaced with a composite material for the case – LM3D – and grade 2 titanium. The BR-X5 Green Lum is both lightweight and full of light, showcasing the best of the LUM series.